Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Runway review: Milan Menswear Spring/Summer 2014

This Milan Menswear shows are my favorites, I meant the styles mostly are perfectly classy. And like i said in my New York and London Menswear post here, I just picked the shows that unique and elegant that become my favorite. In Italy i feel more elegance collections than the other city (NYC, London, Paris) and I still a bit confuse which one is my favorite after Roberto Cavalli, is it Giorgio Armani, or some of the others? Check them out!

Andrea Pompilio
Pompilio was a designer who has strange and new style for Milano, but  he became more suited and formal in his collections. And in this season show, he still have those suits style BUT with his original touch which is motifs. His theme is Vegas (weather in Vegas) which creates confusion motifs. I chose this collection is because it is unique but classy too, the jacket in the first really drive me crazy!

Motorcycle is the theme of this season. With new fabrications like canvas, denim and nylon to drive down the price. Mertin Cooper said even though Belstaff still consider as a new brand but he drew his designs still long time ago, and add some view stuffs here and there to make it modern not a vintage ones. For me this collection is really great for men's outwear all the jackets, pullover, coats and etc are very genius and amazing, all of them are so masculine.

Bottega Veneta
This collection isn't really good but also isn't bad. with Jazzy Old American Theme they doing well with it. I like the sweaters and other outfits are better than the suits, because something not really good with the size or measurement of the pockets, but maybe it is just a new style. but I really like the first and third outfit, looks really neat and classic like someone from old time Jazz era.

A brand new suit maker shows the world that it has another style. With more lighter and more simple. This collection theme is Paris. The designer, Elisabetta Canali said if this collection is between dream and reality. With rather darker color for opening, and then pop the cheerful color and more artistic than the dark-lawyer-like suites. With colored jackets and suites, with fun motifs like polkadot, stripes and mermaid.

Diesel Black Gold
It is still full of denim and leather like the usual DNA designs. And because this collection is for summer, so for trousers and jeans they made it looser. And for jackets are some kind of Bomber jacket and Motorcycle jacket. I like the outwear collections here because of the motorcycle jackets and denim. But the leather shirts look interesting too.

This collection's theme is Sicily and Greece, of course this duo designers want to make Sicily as their motifs for their collection (and some other past collections) because they came from Sicily. And they want to make it as the presentation of Zeus and Apollo. The tailoring including slim suits in shantung silk and raffia, and for jackets, shirts, and some other suits they have matchy pattern with the trouser's pattern. Not all of this collection have Sicily motifs, some just have basic colors or stripes. But I like the look from the first and second suits above, with motifs or not? still look amazing.

I feel something in this collection... Mexican style. There are some Mexican details on the trousers, also western style for the shirts and jackets, horse patterns and leather added in a lot of things. Some of the style feel so Western, but some like the usual Etro, but these new detailing methods  make it different. I love (one of my favorite) this collection because the colors are rich and beautiful but still not too much, also the motifs are beautiful not girly like some other floral design outfits for men. Suits, shirts and jackets are really beautiful and unique.

Silvia Fendi said that she is more confident with this Menswear collection, and she's not using sly twist to this collection too. And we can see this collection is full color and a lot of color blocks clothes with brave colors.She wanted to make this collection looks like on vacation and casual, even in the most formal outfit still have some casual touch, like print which look like swirling sandstorm. And most of the suits there make me fall in love, because it's classy but very casual.

Giorgio Armani
Navy Blue is the main color for Giorgio Armani this season, and in the middle some other colors that pop and came out. Looks like the aesthetic of the collection appear slowly. In here we can see Armani combine casual and sportswear with something more dressy. Also we see minimal graphic pattern in this collection. This show is one of my favorites too. from suits, outwears until shirts all of those are really amazing. the leather jacket in the first outfits looks very masculine combining with the soft pink jeans. In here all looks simple and clean.

This season seems younger, happier more casual, and flower-y (if you know what I mean). a lot of T-shirts here more than shirts, casual pants, and color suites. And don't forget with citron and floral patterns every where.I like the idea for putting floral patterns on sweatshirts and and shirts, I just don't really know if there is someone out there want to wear floral full-suits for their daily look. But the luxury feels come with those floral patterns, Gothic and enchanting. 

Iceberg in this collection looks younger and casual because of the changing main designer from Paolo Gerani to Curradi who is 37 years old. The collection adding sportswear sense with technical and sartorial fabrics. With slip on moccasin, graphic shirts or sweaters, casual pants and skinny are all over here. I like the modernness of this runway collection. Youth and chic.

John Varvatos
This suit-maker designer is fantastic. John Varvatos knows how to dress his client up elegantly. His jackets are three buttoned, and elongated.Pants that he creates were bootcut or narrow. I like how he makes those suites looks so classy and neat, also those jackets which have waistcoat, also those leather pea coat or three button coat that look very smart and classic. I like men's styles who want to dress up like this.

Marc Jacobs
I feel the sun in this collection i meant, summer sun. tropical colored suits, shirts, pants, floral pattern, and chevron patterns every where. This collection feels like vintage time. and seeing these suits are made for workwear, I chose the dark colored suits, I don't think I really enjoy seeing someone wearing pink suits in the office except while it was a fashion company or on holiday.And here (like above) the suits looks very elegant, the geometrical patterned sweatshirts are really preppy. Very Amusing.

Missoni Technic to produce their clothing is different. They use knitting looms not knitting machine, it makes them able to make unique fabrics, like they new type of wear the waterproof coat (they coat the fabric with rubber). And the color theme is darker and look like African theme colored with earth toned, green forest colored and blue-indigo. There are stripe bamboo patterns on everywhere, and tribal knitted look for the clothes. Very urban and unique!

Moncler Gamme Bleu
This one is unique, and not really wearable. and the theme is cricket! The designer also made this collection with pure white color and just a little touch of three color stripes. the mix of the textures that made are unique, and the designer adding this statement if he made the with classic fabrics which are already Bleu's signature. This collection isn't easy to wear, but still beautiful enough to enjoyed in a runway.

I am not really satisfied with this collection honestly. The color block suits that really bold isn't my style. But i like the more formal suits here. And the patterned shirts look lovely too. But this collection is quite nice for holiday in tropical summer places..

Philipp Plein
The style in Plein is dressy but with a touch of rebellion (or casualty). Phillip Plein shows us suits tailoring collections, sweatshirts, leather jackets, shirts and..... under wear (panties). I like this collection because it is kind of dressy but still casual, and the casualty isn't too over until looks scary. and both suits and jackets are fantastic!! For sure I don't have any comments for the panties with "Bad Boy" words on butt's part. 

Ports 1961
I adoring this collection, the cut and tailoring are clean and chic, with cropped trouser or shorts as the bottom part (i don't like the short, it's too short for city wear). Mostly in this collection the outfit doesn't have any pattern, but in some other clothes they give some masculine geometric pattern. These suits looks really neat, and those outwears are incredibly smooth, classic and looked very smart.

Roberto Cavalli
My favorite from these entire Milan shows, and I bet you know what is the reason because of the classic and dress up style for sure. And Mr. Cavalli gave his menswear collection for his son Daniele, and I really like his choices for this collection. He thought about gentleman, warrior, honor, pride and fierceness. The color choices are amazingly elegant and great for men, warm colored. He also add some geometrical prints for the silk shirts or abstract blade motifs for the biker jacket or jacquard. My favorite here are especially the suits and tuxedos. But the jacket is very amazing too.  Looks really glamour and elegant at the same time.

Salvatore Ferragamo
In this season you'll find numbering on the outfits, on the shirts, tank tops, outwear and the drawstring too. It's not a sportswear collection, just the inspiration is athletes wear numbers on their jersey, so the designer just want to give number for his menswear. Giornetti also combine the casual look with dressy look. He also played with materials and colors for this season. I like the outwear collection from this show, really casual and the color just pop!

I can't really describe this collection, because some group of outfits here seems so different with the others. A lot of things here are inspired by Donatella's addiction to sportsmen that exercising a lot to get their goals. Like trousers ending in an athletic ribbed cuff and suit sleeves folded up into elbows, also the colorful details that sometimes appear on model's skin and clothes (i don't know what was that meant). But the knit wear and suits are well make and looked so amazing.

Photos from

What about your favorite? what is your opinion about these collections??
See you next Friday!

Cinta Carnelian

p.s Sorry about my English, I am not a native English, i tried the best that I can. and I am sorry about the review if you don't have the same opinion as mine.