Fifties

Fifties

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Runway review: Paris Menswear Spring/Summer 2014



This is the last of the Spring/Summer 2014 Menswear reviews that I made! You can see the London and New York here and for Milan is here. I want to be honest, writing this review and pick outfits that I like were super difficult! But I enjoying this so much :) And Milan Menswear Fashion week is my favorite this year. And after I reviewed a lot of collections, I think the trends still around flower power, 60's style, tropical prints and marine, but those are quite nice though. And this Paris Menswear also Interesting, more colors just like a painting! check this out!!

3.1 Philip Lim
Accidental Tourist is the theme of 3.1 Philip Lim collection. starting with Plaid prints pieces with the combination of leather jackets or trousers, then Bold Stripes with strong colored stripes and trouser (the blue stripe pants really catch my eyes), then the mysterious Hawaiian floral prints coming to the runway, for me, this floral prints look very beautiful and really great for men (it's only two colors, red n dark blue) not too girly. I really like the tropical essences in this collection, artistic and masculine!  


Alexis Mabile
 Alexis Mabile made his collection with this statement, He only design what he wants to wear. So, he makes the normal suiting and sportswear looks (not with overly detailed or super eccentric cutting technique) and he can mix it well like tho hooded suit above, he mixes the dandy tailoring with casual look that made from pliant rafia. Mabile makes his denim become unique with adding piping along the back of the pockets and stitched AM sign too. And their button down shirts have a big bow on the neck but it just illusion to make us not realizing that they don't have neck wears. I like this collection because it looks casual but neat, and the colors just so decent.


AMI
This show is Standing at the Airport show. Looks like in the Hollywood glamour years while people dress up neatly to go to the Airport. With "passengers"  dress up with suits, shirts, pullover or kind-of-army-themed clothing, businessmen and tourist wearing shirts with tropical colors/motifs. Mattiusi also showing their new products here, now they produce sneakers and sunglasses. I like this collection because it is dandy, really classy and the tropical prints aren't too girly. I really love those three outfits above, n see how well red works on men!


Balmain
The nautical colors, with marine stripes and motifs are with Balmain in this season. But the style more like the worker of the ship not the passengers. With overall, jumpsuit or cadet-like pieces. But the outwear here are really amusing, all the jackets and casual suits are so French Style. I just can't ask for more :) but I'm not really into their slip on Ballerina shoes..  found it not really manly :)

Berluti
Alessandro Sartori made this brand become gorgeous! It is one of the most sophisticated menswear in these entire Paris menswear fashion week. It surprised the luxury market about how casual they look but still well tailored. With the inspiration came from French workers uniform from twentieth century, with intensely toned cotton and two tone shoes. But Sartorini also give a little Italian vintage style in some of the pieces, with five buttoned waistcoat. I think you should see all the entire collection, they are totally amazing. Très bien!!

Givenchy
 It might be sounds weird, but I think the theme is electric tribal. The abstract motifs on the pieces which looks like broken studio (look at the boom box, speaker, and tuned buttons patterns here and there) or the bold colors that arranged perfectly symmetrical, leggings in sporty shorts and sweatshirts or parka on top (with really creative motifs too) you can see this is a unique collections and not really wearable. The inspiration came from Latin America and Africa. How the African boys layers they outfit and have very mix colors on their clothes. But some pieces looks like LA motifs. At least all of them really colorful and unique.

Hermès
Hermes being humble in this collection. With country clubs prints and sandaled legs, boatneck t-shirts, and formal evening wear without any shirts in it. Usually Hermes use animal skin for their products, animal fur to make cotton, but now they use a real cotton n linen. The motifs are nice too with boat theme and the colors looks like marine colors.This collection is really casual, summery, light and tourist dress up style. Very nice to wear.

Jean Paul Gaultier
Gaultier's collection always has something really unique. Some of the outfits look really wearable but some just aren't, for examples the very visible fishnet t-shirt, with colored knitted stripes under it, or the pullover that makes you can see the chest of the owner, even high-knee skorts, chaps and sashes. The tailoring seems unique too, with inside tailoring appeared on the outside. And the motifs are flowers, geometric foulard and distressed tiles. But the flower is too colorful for men , i think because it is fauvist. I think for wearing Gaultier's collection, we need men who able to mix and match outfits really well (and normal).

John Galliano
Another unique collection that I chose, this collection looks really young and loose (what?). The models here wear loose tunics, loose jackets, loose shirts, and all loose tops, with layered clothes in them (example: long coats with built-in layers and vents that unzipped). But the youth looks are really obvious, like abstract motifs jacket, until the thick soles shoes. It's not a collection that i adore, because it doesn't look gentlemanly or classy. And the loose polos aren't nice for men, hopefully they will make it wearable in their stores.

Junya Watanabe
This collection looks like vintage time school boy (i do know, Junya won't make it a school boy themed show) or a holiday, with wool jackets and tropical shirts. Featuring Seil Marschall as their bag supporter, Junya making inside-out patchwork of construction as his signature. The first outfits that came out just at the same color, brownish and more dark, and after the red jacket (the bright one) come out, everything just pop and the colors seems more tropical. And the nice tropical motifs on shirt, and pieces which looks so cheerful in baby blue and white. This Collection is very interesting for me. Comfortable, wearable and beautiful to look at!

Kenzo
This collection is Americanized by the designers who are Californian. A lot of the motifs now are kind of abstract waves, because they want to show surfing (even though it's on the sweatshirts), because surfing is what people want to do in California (the designers said it, not me). That's why now the pants are wider, T-shirts worn ragged and unhemmed. It is casual and sporty, with great motifs like always, and honestly i fall in love with their jackets, shirts and sweaters which has strong motifs. Very creative and beautiful, but manly and modern.

Louis Vuitton
One of my favorite collection too. LV this season have the luxurious traveling theme or actually a super preppy, classy and dressy traveling outfits. For motifs and prints, they use dark tie-dye (dark blue, dark red, black), the coat elbow patches made from crocodile skin, the suits from silk, and the denim jackets actually were suede. The styling is pretty modest, with businessman style and casual preppy sports look.Very classy and amazing to wear.
McQ Alexander McQueen
McQ is so youth artful with this pieces. Showing us hot bright colors, bold graphic motifs, and some of the styling looks like indie band style (example: green plaid pants with maroon shirt and bright yellow jacket), but some are normal and very masculine, (just black and white with bold graphic, just like those photos above), and some have a very rock rebellion looks with jeans, and leathers also tartans. i like the first outfits above, full of graphic but not cheesy. McQ's team really did a great job to make punk indie rock style clothes.

Opening Ceremony
This spring collection looks very sporty with shorts, sweaters, cargos, tees, sneakers and slup on shoes. Some outwears look really cool too, like the knee length n super wide hoodies, and full motifs sweats which looks very cool. But for sure the motifs are so artistic, graphic bold colors and youthful. Impressive!

Paul & Joe
Cruise ship theme! (again!) I really like Paul and Joe collection, showing us tropical holiday outfits, with bright colors, marine and tropical land motifs (anchor, fishes, tropical flowers, lions),short sleeves shirts also look really good, and stripes sweats indeed very good. Bags, sneakers, and sandals also supporting these styles. This collection combine the marine trips and jungle lands. Very colorful, neat and masculine.

Paul Smith
There will be no formal tailoring suits tonight said Paul Smith. And yeah the first outfits that come were really colorful and casual, after that we can see some colorful casual blazers. We can see color blocks and hot neon colors everywhere here. And some styling looks so classy like pastel colored sweats with white pants, some look shocking, like hot neon pink knee length trench coat with black shorts. And there is not much motifs here, just a giant colorful fungi, some colorful stripes, and a little bit flowers on some outfits. But the cheerfulness of the colors makes me think about a different world, a candy-high world...

Saint Lauren
I don't really can write about this collection. The clothing and all the style looks like from around late 70's or 80's (im not really sure) with super tight pencil trousers, super pointy shoes, and tight shirts the collection is coming. Stripes everywhere, biker jackets everywhere. The style is quite dandy and fun. Especially the zebra and plastic look super tight pants. What i like from this collection are the tops, and outwears, they look very comfortable and masculine. But just feeling funny for the pants and shoes.

Thom Browne
Not a wearable collection, and kind of super ridiculously creative. The theme was military and as you can see it is a marine army. Showing super long and wide macs, and wide trumpets wide pants, and some cool navy-like jackets. And red lipstics on men. Very creative and not too amusing. I chose this because the uniqueness not because it is kind of a preppy look.

Valentino
"Couture as Culture" that is this Valentino theme. Couture for ready to wear. honestly i don't really understand the technique that they use for this collection, but i know if the collection try to look casual with jackets, tees, polos but the cut, sewn and everything were so well tailored. The inspiration is uniform, means they make a preppy look. and yes, this collection is super preppy and classic. It is Valentino.

Victor & Rolf
The collections seem like preppy school boy look. With dark colored pullover, suites and jackets. All of the pieces seem not casual at all. With well tailoring suits, combining suiting fabric and strech jersey for the suits, sewing silk into lapels. The casualty isn't on the look, but more in the materials. I like this collection, never wrong being classy.



Which one is your favorite??
Mine is Valentino, LV, and  Paul&Joe
Love you!
XOXOXOXOXO


Cinta Carnelian

6 comments:

  1. I just love this clothes!:)

    http://freshisyummy.blogspot.com/2013/07/london-part-2.html

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    1. You are a male, so go ahead to buy! haha...

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  2. Lovely collections of pics!

    xx
    FashionEvELand | FEEL

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  3. Love the collection!
    Great blog, so I'm a New follower =)

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    Replies
    1. Thank you Diana! Im gonna Follow you back!

      Cinta

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